The MFT Sysport

Occasionally there are projects you wish you had done sooner. This is such a project, but I couldn’t do it in the confines of my old shop. Under my MFT was a huge pile of scrap that I couldn’t easily do something with, so I needed the MFT to remain on it’s own legs. In my new shop though, I didn’t have that restriction. On a whim Saturday morning, I set out designing this project.

An MFT Sysport is something that has been done many times over. I knew about what I wanted out of the project, and knew that existing designs would accomplish those goals. The main goal was to get the MFT more mobile so that I could pull the attic ladder down easier. I was dragging the MFT a bit out and toward the door to clear the swing of the ladder, and it wasn’t fun. The MFT being put on any sort of wheels would make that easier. Another goal was to create more storage space for systainers and anything else I needed.

As I was indeed cribbing established designs, that part of the process went quickly. I knew that I wanted side small storage closest to my workbench, so it was really about drawing up exactly what sizes the panels were and where they fit together. I stole the measurements as well, as this was to be my first entirely metric project.

The 3/4″ plywood was bought from Lowes, which frankly offered much better quality for a similar price to what my local lumbar yard is selling for. It’s ridiculous that shop grade ply is nearly $50 a sheet. I paid exactly $50 a sheet for much nicer looking top ply and few voids. I had all the pieces cut within an hour, even one piece too many for some reason. I decided that it would all come together in a hybrid of styles – the bottom sheet would attach to the vertical end piece, and two side end pieces with Dominos and that went easily enough. The spine was also done with Dominos, in field. This was my first successful implementation of non-edge mortise making with that. I then switched to screws to further attach the spine to the bottom, the end to the spine, and a couple of my inner vertical pieces to the side end pieces. I also then used pocket screws where necessary, and attached the top with more face screws. I’m being a bit lazy in my description here, but none of this is really complicated stuff.

I had used my LR32 system to give some drawer holes to the outside on 16mm spacing. Doubling up like this gives more options to hang the drawers. I only did the front holes because I was a bit lazy, plus they really aren’t needed in this application. Pick which front hole I want to put the drawer slide in, get it square to the front edge with a drawer slide tool, and just drill the back hole with a screw. On something that is better than shop furniture I’d do two full columns. I also made mistakes on getting everything set up somehow, and it must be how I attached the end stops. I can’t figure out exactly how, but I did it at least three times unfortunately. That also played a role in not doing a second column for each.

The CT Midi just barely fits in one of the spots for drawers, and I may need to drill some vent holes. But it fits. The MFTis just sitting on top for right now, I need to cut up some 1/2″ ply so that it has a cleat to sit in. Just four pieces to sit inside the MFT corners is fine. I bet glue would work, then a pin or two after it dries.

The pic up top shows my Trion mounted as an example, but I really have no idea what I’ll actually store here. My drills would be a very good choice. I will also have at least a couple regular drawers for stuff like pliers. Perhaps a drawer or two for MFT accessories, I have no idea. I spent $60 on four 5″ locking casters from Rockler, and about $7 to mount them with 5/16″ carriage bolts, washers and nuts. I may need to buy more short drawer slides, but I am converting my entire chaos wall from single to double systainer depth, so I’m not sure.

Really happy with this, it feels rock solid, it was simple to make (about six hours total build time), fairly inexpensive for the benefit, and greatly increases my storage capability. Everything I would want out of a shop project. Plus, it makes getting upstairs easy. And, when I have the ability to move it outside on a deck, I can free up assembly space inside or work with much bigger pieces. I could also eventually buy or make an extension so that in a new shop I have even more surface to work with.

 

Matthew’s Table – Overview

I’ve been promising a table for my son since approximately a year ago. Then I got sidetracked building my new shop. I eventually bought the material to build it late last year, and it has been sitting in the old shop waiting for the right time. Now that the set build for this year is complete (and I’ll be posting about that coming up), and is actually about to be struck, it’s finally time to get started.

Here is the render again.

It’s a simple design: approximately 20″ tall, wide, and deep. The legs are tapered to the skirt (I think that is what those rails are called), and I’ll have to go back and measure that in the render. The top will likely be plywood with a hardwood banding. It will go together with Dominos for expediency and accuracy, and the whole thing will be stained GF Java, and topped with Arm-R-Seal. There’s also going to be one hidden feature that I may or may not be able to share. That will depend on how public my son would like it to be.

This is going to be an interesting project as it may determine if I need to substantially fix my jointer or buy a new one. The fence is a bit twisted, as far as I can tell. It might be something I have to invest in, but I’m actually hoping I can hold off to see if I can fit an 8″ jointer in a new shop when we buy a new house.

The Stacked Clamp Rack

A project absolutely vital to my new shop is a new clamp rack. The one I have now takes up way too much room along the wall in the old shop, and I can’t duplicate that. I have a space in my new shop next to the door that is approximately three feet wide, and would be a perfect spot.

Here is the current clamp rack, which has the clamps oriented in a single depth and a long distance across the wall.

Here is the plan for the new rack, which turns the clamps sideways, separates the clamp faces, and stacks them for saving space.

I’ll be able to store more clamps in three feet of space than I could in just under six, although they will stick out from the wall a bit more. Because of this, the construction needs to be stout.

I started by seeing if I had enough scrap to get this done. I have quite a bit of smaller pieces, but only two big pieces, one of which is being used on my wood rack. The big pieces don’t always match the construction of the little pieces, either being different grades of plywood or different ply. I wanted this project to not just be thrown together with mismatched materials if I could help it, probably being something I would have up on my wall for years to come.

I had a big piece of ply behind my band saw where the old shop is rotting, so it had some water damage, but I could get the piece I needed out of it. I used the table saw to rip it to 13″, and the MFT and Festool TS55 to cross cut it to 33″. This was the first time I had used these tools in the new shop, and made sure they were set up properly. The cuts were dead bang on both measurements, which made me very happy. I cut all the parts to size using these two tools.

With all the square parts cut, I moved on to the angled relief cuts on the ends and supports. I really just picked the middle of the parts on the render to cut the corner, so I had to give it a bit more thought in real life. I went with a six inch base for the triangle in both directions, and simply connected the points to make the hypotenuse. I set up my miter saw to 45 and made the cut on the line for all five supports and the two ends.

To give a little bit easier time inserting the clamps into the rack, I marked out a quarter circle on each of the supports and sanded to the line with the Ridgid oscillating spindle sander. With the dust extractor, I was able to capture much more dust than I have in the past. I simply set the sander up on the router table and did the task there. It was surprisingly hassle-free. I did get a little carried away and sanded a corner where I shouldn’t have, but that’s okay, and is on the far end where I won’t see it clearly.

I decided for simple screw and butt joint construction here, even though it’s going to be carrying quite a bit of weight. I used plenty of screws on all the weight-bearing loads, and nice long screws into the studs.

The old clamp racks were five feet long combined on the wall, and could hold 30 parallel clamps. This one is less than three feet long, and can handle 30-35 clamps, and fits in much better in the flow of this shop. This is a project that was crucial to the space I made available in the shop, and should serve me well. If for some reason I need to build another one, it would be a simple and cheap process. I’m very happy with this, and it was a good way to break in the new shop and test how everything is going to work.

Guitar Hangers

Recently, I decided I wanted to take up guitar again. I bought my first guitar, a 1995 Fender Squier Series Strat, and never really got the hang of it. I added an acoustic a few years ago, but still nothing. A Guitar Center opened up near me, and it really rekindled my desire. I have wanted a Les Paul for many years, and found what I would consider the deal of the century a little bit ago, used. A 2015 Epiphone LP Traditional Pro for about 70% off.

I mention these things because I no longer had room to safely store the guitars. I had a flimsy hard case for the Strat, and a soft gig bag for the dreadnought. Nothing for the LP. After wearing down the wife for a bit, I got permission to hang them on the wall. I could have just bought hangers, but what’s the fun in that? A video from Jon Peters gave me the inspiration, and I bought some rustic walnut to give it a shot.

It’s a fairly simple project all told. Cut up the walnut to size, put a little divot where the head of the guitar will sit, cut at about 15° to give the outside some shape, mark and drill some holes, put it together. Fill the screw holes, finish. This makes it way simpler than it really is, but you get the idea. Some progress pics (I did remember this time):

These were the two prototypes. As you can see, the head rest divots were not done very well. I was able to salvage the better two and combine for the acoustic hanger. This one ended up being shorter and a little wider than the rest. With modified dimensions, and an eye to making better head divots, I went on to make three more. I had much better control at the spindle sander this time.

I sanded to 120 and used Arm-R-Seal. I sanded again to 220 and then again to 320 with successive coats. The tall fence on the router table made a great spot to let them dry, and you can see some of the contrasting color in the plugs.

Yeah, almost all of that is Ikea. But when you need a home office up in short order, your job isn’t going to wait around for you to build custom stuff. When I move into a new house, I can start to think about what I really want it to look like and out of what. The guitar hangers are just a first step. I’ve also got one to grow on, or I may cut it in half for my kids ukes.

Thanks for checking this simple project out.

All the Workshop’s a Stage

Stage building. I don’t have that much experience and I don’t like doing much of it. But, once or twice a year my skills are put to the test. This year was a bit different, because there wasn’t too much of a scene…um, scene for me to build, but structure. My wife would do everything with painting to make the play come alive, but I would need to make the (literal) building blocks to make it happen.

First up were some 18″ cubes that would serve as props and bases. There were a few already made with the stage company for me to take advantage of, so I measured and duplicated their measurements and construction. They were made of 7/16″ OSB, with 2×2″ pine as corner supports. The trick was, at the outset, how to quickly and easily make all the pieces the same size.

Enter the DIY Festool Parallel Guides. I was thinking of buying, but decided to make my own. This was an excellent idea, and I achieved good results on my test pieces. Indeed, this project was the genesis of that tool construction. With the testing a success, I went and bought seven sheets of OSB, plus four sheets of 3/8″ hardboard for the other aspect. A handful of 2×2″ boards were bought a few days later, they not needing a trailer to bring home.

For each of the OSB sheets, I did the following: I crosscut a fresh square edge off one end, then used the parallel guides, marked at 18″ on the first sheet, to crosscut at exactly 18″. There might have been some variance between the boards, but if there was it was very slight. Millimeter or so. They all felt the same.

So I had 35 18″x48″ sections which I then took to the MFT. I again trimmed one edge perpendicular, flipped it over, then cut twice at 18″. It took awhile, but that created 70 18″ square pieces of MDF. Now, only 14 of these would stay a true 18″ square. These were the tops. All of the rest of the pieces were then cut along one side 7/16″ short. This would allow the top to sit on the sides and keep the 18″ height. Then, half of those (28) were cut 7/8″ on the adjacent side. What this allowed is for two of the sides to tuck into two of the others, again keeping the cube 18″ in all dimensions.

With the OSB all cut, it was time to cut the 2×2 into 17-9/16″ sections. I needed 56 of those. Those 2×2 pieces were air nailed to the face edges of the shortest dimension boards. Then the longer side pieces were nailed to the attached 2x2s, and then the tops went on. For anything that didn’t turn out absolutely square with the top piece, I used my handheld router to trim it flush.

All in all, the cubes turned out fine. Not perfect, but perfectly usable. They were painted by my wife for use in the play in nice bright colors. I got plenty of splinters, and they held my weight just fine.

The other aspect of the stage play I had to construct was a big ‘X’ that some panels would hang between. The company had some 8’x4′ flats, made out of more 2×2 and hardboard. I doubled these together, made a top and bottom plate for them to attach to, and thus the ‘X’ can stand up and be wheeled around. I then used the parallel guides again to rip cut 18″ sections in the hardboard we bought to span the negative space. I made up some saddles to attach the panels by sitting on top of the connected flats. Hard to explain, but it worked. Again, the parallel guides worked brilliantly, since I don’t have a long enough rail to rip cut all at once.

The only thing I have left to do is to make a fake fridge that opens, and I’ll use some hardboard and 2×2 that are left over.

 

SO…I wrote this a week ago and just now got around to posting this with the pictures. The fake fridge worked well, as did everything else. The play was a success, and the entire thing only took about 30 minutes to take down. For my first set construction, I think it went pretty well, and I look forward to what will come next.

Updated MFT clamp rack

Normally I just put stuff like this into the Bench Shavings posts, but I thought I’d go ahead and highlight.

This was my first attempt. The clamp holes on the bottom were an afterthought, as was the addition of the two Rockler knobs for the Kreg clamps to the right.

So, I went to Rockler, bought a 20mm bit (because the stops in particular were very loose with a 3/4″ bit), and had another go. The result is above, but one more time for direct comparison and explanation.

I used the Incra Rules to get me nice consistent spacing for everything, and drilled eight 20mm holes for the stops and clamps. I have room to store double of both, because I know at some point I’ll at least buy more stops, and it might make sense just to get another whole set. I also grouped the clamps and stops together for better use of the space.

I then drilled some 5/16″ holes (I think) for the knobs to fit their stems in. I drilled eight of those, once again for expansion capacity. Then it was 1/2″ holes at the bottom for the clamps to sit in. Plenty of room for expansion there, four extra spots. The quick clamps are completely awesome, and worth the price difference above the manual ones.

That’s basically it, but it’s nice to have all this completely at the ready. I reused the angled ply off the old mount, but it’s completely the wrong angle for the much longer orientation. Will have to make some new ones at around 5°. But speaking of being at the ready, I moved my wrenches/snips off the wall right there and put it at a better reach than the old ones were. Now I don’t have to lift the track up to get by and get them on the other side of the MFT.

Yet another small project that organizes and gives me small pleasure in the shop.

DIY Festool Parallel Guides

I love my Festool TS55 track saw and rail system. I also love my Festool MFT for crosscutting. Both, however, have their limitations when it comes to repeat-ability on large items. The MFT has a woeful crosscut ability with the rail installed, and even without is still limited – no full sheet crosscutting here.

To solve that, Festool has available a parallel guide system. Unfortunately it is beset with issues from those who own it, and it is terribly expensive. Third parties like Seneca Woodworking and Precision, and even Woodpeckers have come up with their own solutions. I needed a solution relatively quickly, and I didn’t want to spend the $100 plus on one of their systems, plus supply my own track. I decided to design something myself, use that same track, and if it didn’t work out I would then go with a commercial solution.

I got my main inspiration from a user on the Festool forum, and I’ll link directly to the thread at the bottom of this entry. I did see some room for improvement, and while not all of my ideas bore fruit, they were still worthwhile.

I headed to Woodcraft and picked up everything but the two bags of bolts to the right:

Two 24″ sections of Incra T-Track Plus – $14.99 ea

One Incra 1/4″-20 Build-It System bag – $12.50

One Festool rail connector (482107) – $18.00

I decided early on to go with MDF, being dimensionally true and stable. I also figured out that I could use M6 bolts, so I went with what I call thumb screws. The ones in the picture are 20mm, but what you really need is more like maybe 25mm.

I had a piece of 1/2″ MDF on hand that I tried to use, and glued everything up separately after fitting the T-track. At this point I wasn’t worried about the stops, just the attachment to the rails. I then did my best guess at getting the Festool rail connector to where it needed to be, drilled holes, cut the connector in half with my miter saw, and mocked it up with the Build-It kit.

It wasn’t bad, but I knew I could do better. Since I was out of MDF the right size, I bought a project panel (2’x4′) from the Depot and started again. This time, instead of cutting small parts and gluing them around the track, I went with a full glue up of two pieces. Then I could use the table saw and remove the material for both the rail connector and the T-track.

I had a third glue-up that was similar that I turned into the stops. The Incra T-track plus is exactly 1/2″ high, and I went with 3/8″ deep dado for the rail connector. I think in actuality it should be more like 1/4″ deep, but I’m sure there will be a third revision to this that will correct it.

I used drill bits that just fit those M6 bolts, so they threaded in to the MDF just like the rail connector. I did the same for the 1/4″ bolts that attach the guides to the T-track. I don’t know why I did this, but it seemed to make sense and worked.

As I said, I made the stops the exact same way as the connector part, thinking that a wide base would be better for getting a true measurement. I used slick tape to line where the T-track touched the stop, so I could get a good connection there and still slide easily. That worked well.

The width of the stops however did not. When I did my test cuts, I was out by about 1/16″ over two feet.

Now, there could have been a few factors here, but I chose to improve the stops. I cut them a lot narrower, and added screws where it would contact the piece.

This gives me pretty good adjustability for getting good contact with the workpiece. My method for these, for now, is to make sure I have a clean edge on the piece I am cutting. Then I mark the width I need, line the Festool rail up with my marks, then adjust the stops and screw heads to where everything is snug like it needs to be. I then verified my test cut.

There’s only the slightest bit of difference, and this is over 16″ wide. At least for the upcoming project this will be completely acceptable, but I won’t stop striving for excellence. To that fact, I decided to freestyle some softening of the edges and corners on the connectors and hung them on the wall.

Yeah, I’ll make a version three at some point. I’ll be a bit more exact on my hole placement, etc. But I think this is a fully functional setup at this point and I’ll be using it very soon…like maybe tomorrow.

Including the 1/4 sheet MDF I had to buy for version two, I’m all in for right at $75 for the entire lot, including going back and buying additional M6-25 bolts. Since I have plenty of that MDF left, a third version will not cost me a cent if I decide to revise.

 

 

Link to my motivation:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/yet-another-homemade-parallel-guides/

Baby it’s flipping cold outside

The first polar vortex of the year brought some brisk temperatures to the Atlanta area this weekend. This morning’s low temp was probably around 21F. According to my thermostat inside the shop, it got down to around 27F, if it is accurate. I’m not sure it is, but I have no other way of being able to tell. I’d like to get a better thermostat, but it needs a history function like this one does.

That’s cold. I had to bring all my batteries in Friday night, and did the same this evening as well. It is a good use for my spare systainer. The Ryobi batteries, Bosch batteries, my BT speaker and my Zune all made the trip to warmer climes. Such is the life of a shop that does not have permanent power and is disconnected from the house.

What has helped a tremendous amount is the oil-filled heater I bought a few weeks ago. It has a range of 65-85 degrees, and three power settings. It feels much safer than using the forced air heaters I have, and hopefully more efficient. I made a little space for it under the jointer, and I think that is a good spot for it. This morning, I set the heater out a little bit in the middle of the shop and set it at 65 degrees. When I finally got out to the shop a couple hours later, it was very pleasant in the shop. I wheeled it back in it’s little spot, and kept it on. I can certainly run it while it is in it’s home, it just seems better for heating the shop in the open. However, that also makes it more dangerous to touch, so only when I don’t plan on being in the shop for a bit. I think I worked out it would cost me about $0.06 an hour to run on the low setting. All the calculators I found told me the same amount. $0.12 for the high setting. I would have to see what the power output on the eco setting is.

With the heater having a home, the jointer having a home, and the air compressor having a home, it was time to give all those homes a roof. The left side of the miter saw had a nice counter facilitated by the systainer cabinets, but I had no such support system on the right side. Everything underneath needed to have full access.

The top is just like the other side, two sheets of 3/4″ ply and 1/8″ hardboard on top. I thought I went cheap on the left side, and did the same on the right. They don’t match up if you look at the edges, but I hope to cover them anyway. I attached a triangular support to the miter saw shelf to dial in the height, and used my Woodpecker’s straight edge to line up the support on the far wall. Then I attached two of my 2×4 triangular brackets to the wall right where they were needed. It wouldn’t hold me like the other side would, but then again it won’t need to. There is only a few inches between the surface and the bottom of the wood rack. This is simply a support for the miter saw and a bit more space to hold a couple things out of the way, like the couple of cutoffs of mahogany I received.

The piece of hardboard I had isn’t long enough, but it is good enough for now. I will either fill in or replace it entirely. This was my Saturday, and it was a good half day or so in the shop. I’ll work on Sunday to get the place a bit more cleaned up and ready for the handful of projects I have on my plate, including the maple we bought for the boy’s table project.

Housekeeping – Late 2016

Been awhile since I shared some projects I’ve taken care of around the house, and with the completion of a couple more I figured it was a good time. I’ve posted this in several categories, it will be interesting to see which side of the site this gets published to.

Our house is 45 years old now, built during a period that really isn’t well-known for great designs or longevity. Ours was remodeled and added-on to about 15 years ago, and the results are decidedly mixed. Not our fault, we moved in after, right about eight years ago. Some of the projects I’m just getting around to were noted on the inspection. What can I say, I’m a procrastinator.

I’ll start with the project I just completed. We have a whole house fan in our hallway, and it had two controls – one big monstrosity of a panel on the left here, and a manual timer on the right. Note, this picture was taken after I was done, so the missing button and dial were there before.

Well, the dial control is supposed to have a automatic shutoff, but the clockspring has been broken since probably we moved in. I can’t honestly remember. While I was at Lowe’s shopping for items for another project, I saw a digital timer that met my criteria. Many timers only go for as long as 60 minutes, but I wanted something more like eight hours. This one goes up to four, or there is pure manual control. That worked for me, and it was fairly cheap.

It turned out that the big control box was a thermostat, long since broken. The only thing relevant was the power button that reset the manual timer when needed. I pulled the dial timer and discovered only 14/2 wire, and I needed a neutral. On a hunch, I also pulled the thermostat and found that neutral I was looking for. If I put the timer where the thermostat was, I could eliminate the dial timer and junction box completely. It was fairly trivial to get the wiring correct, there were three 14/2 wiring runs coming into the double box. One was hot, one went to the fan, and the other ran inside the wall to the dial timer. It was only a matter of determining which run to assign the line/load to, and I guessed correctly. I put in an old work box where the old timer was, and a blank plate. Then I used a two gang plate and a blank insert in with the old thermometer space.

Speaking of a thermostat, shortly after we moved in I replaced the analog thermostat with a programmable one, a seven day unit. It had worked well for a long time, but with the addition of some home automation things (Phillips Hue, Amazon Echo), I wanted a smart thermostat. I had my eye on the Ecobee3 for a bit, and picked one up when it went on sale just before Black Friday. Again with the wiring, I didn’t have enough wiring in the wall (needed a common). However, Ecobee includes in their box a kit to convert five to four at the furnace. An extra hour or so (trip to store for some connectors), and I had it hooked up and running. It’s very nice to be able to see how the weather impacts our heating and cooling, and see just how much and how often the furnace or AC kicks on. It also comes with remote sensors, and you can see the temperatures in other rooms and identify hot or cool spots. After a month I’ll be able to see a detailed report, even more than I’m getting already.

Our house did not have any external outlets until earlier this year. I installed one in the back of the house to run the lesser extension cord for the shop, and on Saturday I installed one on the front to run holiday decorations and what-not. This was the project I completed right before the fan timer. A much needed addition, and I have plans for at least one more in the carport for the vacuum and when I need to bring the compressor down.

I posted a few weeks ago on Instagram a picture of a networking board, a neat setup of my networking equipment on an easy to access board mounted to a wall. I got a new router, so it’s time to redo it. I got the new router up and running Friday night, but by Saturday morning the internet went out and hasn’t come back at the time I am writing this (Saturday night). When this gets posted, the internet will have been fixed.

Next up I think is some more wiring and general improvements. I want to add an outlet at our kitchen computer to mount it below the counter. Probably add a 3.5mm and VGA connections as well. I have a bit of that already on hand from when I thought I was going to do it several years ago. I’ll also start wiring for our bedroom TV wall mount, and future living room wall mount. Perhaps finally run some ethernet cable to the living room instead of using powerline.

That’s pretty much it for this time around. Might have a followup at some point next year when these other things get taken care of.

LEGOrganization, Part Three

After a long break I finally got around to getting this closer to a finished state. This would have been better to report as it happened, or in two parts, but here it is.

I picked up a bit of poplar to trim the edges, and it went as well as could be expected. I trimmed it flush to the cabinet with my OF1010 and edge guide. The corners were handled with chisels, and I think in my future will be some sort of paring chisel. Mine worked, but a tool fit for the purpose would have worked even better. I decided to clean up a bit of the tearout on the ply with some putty, and the outside got sanded from 120-180-220 with the 6″ sander.

A few weeks later I finished the last two drawers after I had moved some stuff around in the shop. With all the drawers made, it was time to start thinking about drawer fronts. I rearranged the drawer spacing to give wider fronts to the lower two drawers, and started making them up. For simplicity’s sake, I used 3/4″ poplar boards from Lowe’s, instead of getting something rough and milling it myself. getting them to the right size took a bit of trial and error, but some work at the miter saw then the table saw gave me what I needed. All the fronts went on with double-sided turner’s tape, with pennies for the spacing. I just eyeballed the sides.

When each front was on, they got secured with a couple of screws. I started running into a problem as I got to the top, they seemed to be a bit crooked. Initially I had a bit of despair, but with solid wood it can always be massaged. I used my block plane to get everything sorted out. Then I continued to use the plane to get all the spacing gaps perfectly spot on. It was a revelation.

As you can see, the grain is a bit lined up, even though the final finish will be done in a white gloss paint. Still not sure on the technique or brand, but I have a couple of ideas. When all the drawers were finalized, it was time for drawer pulls. A couple months ago, Ikea has their drawer pull template on clearance for a dollar, so I picked one up. Since I have a billion of their drawer pulls, it made sense. The template came in very handy, and I was able to install the pulls pretty easily.

The only issue with the drawer pulls are the screws. They only are made for a 3/4″ maximum depth installation, and anything deeper requires clearance holes for the heads. I had to do this here as well, and I drilled a bit too deep on one, coming out the front. I filled with putty, and it didn’t turn out too bad.

Now, on that upper drawer on the right side, it was sticking proud of the frame. A few drawers were, but I was able to screw the false fronts in better and that solved the issue. Except for the top one. Again, with the drawer fronts made of wood, I decided to apply the block plane again. It made a difference, but it also put track marks in the wood. The cabinet scraper came to the rescue and made them disappear.

The drawer fronts were sanded with the same grits, but with my new 5″ Festool sander. It is the special edition Pro5, and I’ll have my thoughts on it soon enough. It was nicer to have a bit less weight for sanding vertically and upside down, and certainly got the job done.

As I posted before, there will be a few drawers with the tackle boxes serving as dividers. There will probably be one drawer where I do something from scratch for bigger pieces. The bottom drawer is for manuals at this point.

Two things left to do: put in a toe kick plate, and paint. I keep putting off testing paint. Maybe this week.