After a long break I finally got around to getting this closer to a finished state. This would have been better to report as it happened, or in two parts, but here it is.
I picked up a bit of poplar to trim the edges, and it went as well as could be expected. I trimmed it flush to the cabinet with my OF1010 and edge guide. The corners were handled with chisels, and I think in my future will be some sort of paring chisel. Mine worked, but a tool fit for the purpose would have worked even better. I decided to clean up a bit of the tearout on the ply with some putty, and the outside got sanded from 120-180-220 with the 6″ sander.
A few weeks later I finished the last two drawers after I had moved some stuff around in the shop. With all the drawers made, it was time to start thinking about drawer fronts. I rearranged the drawer spacing to give wider fronts to the lower two drawers, and started making them up. For simplicity’s sake, I used 3/4″ poplar boards from Lowe’s, instead of getting something rough and milling it myself. getting them to the right size took a bit of trial and error, but some work at the miter saw then the table saw gave me what I needed. All the fronts went on with double-sided turner’s tape, with pennies for the spacing. I just eyeballed the sides.
When each front was on, they got secured with a couple of screws. I started running into a problem as I got to the top, they seemed to be a bit crooked. Initially I had a bit of despair, but with solid wood it can always be massaged. I used my block plane to get everything sorted out. Then I continued to use the plane to get all the spacing gaps perfectly spot on. It was a revelation.
As you can see, the grain is a bit lined up, even though the final finish will be done in a white gloss paint. Still not sure on the technique or brand, but I have a couple of ideas. When all the drawers were finalized, it was time for drawer pulls. A couple months ago, Ikea has their drawer pull template on clearance for a dollar, so I picked one up. Since I have a billion of their drawer pulls, it made sense. The template came in very handy, and I was able to install the pulls pretty easily.
The only issue with the drawer pulls are the screws. They only are made for a 3/4″ maximum depth installation, and anything deeper requires clearance holes for the heads. I had to do this here as well, and I drilled a bit too deep on one, coming out the front. I filled with putty, and it didn’t turn out too bad.
Now, on that upper drawer on the right side, it was sticking proud of the frame. A few drawers were, but I was able to screw the false fronts in better and that solved the issue. Except for the top one. Again, with the drawer fronts made of wood, I decided to apply the block plane again. It made a difference, but it also put track marks in the wood. The cabinet scraper came to the rescue and made them disappear.
The drawer fronts were sanded with the same grits, but with my new 5″ Festool sander. It is the special edition Pro5, and I’ll have my thoughts on it soon enough. It was nicer to have a bit less weight for sanding vertically and upside down, and certainly got the job done.
As I posted before, there will be a few drawers with the tackle boxes serving as dividers. There will probably be one drawer where I do something from scratch for bigger pieces. The bottom drawer is for manuals at this point.
Two things left to do: put in a toe kick plate, and paint. I keep putting off testing paint. Maybe this week.